Day 31: Chatuchak Market

Today we were back on the skytrain to visit the Chatuchak Weekend Market, a place where you can buy almost anything and even have it shipped home. It's open during the week, but on the weekend it really comes to life with 200,000 visitors and over 15,000 booths. After wandering through some of the narrow corridors, we're glad to have made a visit during the calm week. Can't imagine wandering the narrow corridors amongst the weekend crowds. Link to all Pictures.

Day 29-30: Back in Bangkok

Yesterday we flew back to Bangkok and spent the rest of the day at the hotel so today we needed some excitement. This morning we took the free shuttle back the the airport and hopped on the skytrain. We stopped at MBK Shopping Centre, six floors of shop till you drop excitement spread over many stores and stalls. There was a great food court on the sixth floor with local and international cuisine.

Vicky managed to find that last coconut shake and a coconut waffle to go with it. Our afternoon was spent touring on five different modes of transportation. We cruised up the Chao Phraya River on the ferry, took a tuk tuk to the subway, subway back to skytrain, skytrain to the station and a taxi back to the hotel.
Link to Pictures.

Day 28: Poo Poo and Prints

We visited the Elephant Poo Poo Paper Company, a great little attraction that lets you see all the steps in paper making process as well as participate in creating a sheet of paper and crafting a final project (journal or greeting card). An afternoon scenic drive lead us to the Temple of Four Buddhas' Footprints,

another location Steve discovered while out hugging the curves on his motorbike. On arrival today there were many areas of construction including what looks to be a large entry gate - the secret is out. Steve barbequed some pork kebabs, fresh garden beans and potatoes for dinner while we packed our bags. An amazing time in Chiang Mai with STIK Tours (Steve and Tik), we highly recommend them for anyone on vacation in the area. They are by special referral only, though ;) Everyday is a surprise from meals to the adventure, with each pick tailored to the guests desire. Off to Bangkok tomorrow for our last couple of days in Thailand. Link to all photos.

Day 27: Thailand's Highest Peak

Another fantastic touring day to the highest point in Thailand - Doi Inthanon. We started at 350 m elevation and 32 degrees and ended at 2565 m and 13 degrees - it was refreshing chilly at the top for the Canadians. ;) There was a bike race in progress as we ascended and the fastest time up was 1 hr 30 min, which seemed remarkable considering the conditions and elevation change. Another great Thai dinner to finish at STIK tours pick of the day.

Day 26: Bua Tong Waterfall and Chiang Dao Cave

Another great day of eating and touring. First stop, Bua Tong Waterfall -Chet Si Spring. First we hiked up to the source, a shallow very clear pool where Steve pulled out some water and we all took a little to sprinkle on ourselves for good luck. We sat for a bit then proceeded to walk down the waterfall, a tiered, smoothed limestone pathway. As long as you stayed in the flowing water there was surprisingly excellent traction, just took a bit to get your head around the fact that you wouldn't fall down with the water. Next stop in the tour was Chiang Dao Cave,

a large cave system with small areas containing religious shrines. We explored the public access lit sections and decided to skip the three other segments which you can be guided through with a lantern. Mainly because the smell of the gas lanterns in the enclosed space was a bit overwhelming and they wouldn't let us go with just Gary's dive lights.  A light dinner in a fantastic setting then on to the Night Market for a little shopping. Tik acted as our personal shopper, getting us the true Thai pricing rather than the inflated farang rates.

It was quite entertaining, we would look at something, then send the signal and Tik would move in from the stall next door and casually look at a few things. Finally she would choose what we just put down and the negotiating would start. Tik had to get creative a few times, as a couple of the shop owners were on to the technique, but Tik used her skills to ensure she had nothing to do with these three farang's that were buying nothing. ;)
Link to the Pictures.

Day 25: Mae Sa-Samoeng Loop

Leisurely start to the day with a late morning departure for lunch where Tik took care of ordering us a delicious meal (the menu and restaurant were entirely in Thai) along with Tik and Steve's favorite green tea drink which was a little like desert in a cup....great for cutting the spice.  After lunch we enjoyed a scenic drive from the lowlands up through the forested highlands - a loop Steve usually enjoys on his motorcycle. The first stop was at STIK tours private elephant reserve...a spot Steve randomly discovered last December, while out riding for the day. It now appears the location is in its infancy of becoming a tourist attraction, but we were still allowed to interact with the elephants on our own without a guide, as Steve had originally found them. Could have spent the whole day just hanging there, but we had other attractions to venture to.

As we climbed higher there were extensive areas of agricultural production of all varieties of fruits and veggies. But with strawberry's still in season, they were the highlight, with several varieties as well as juice and our new favorite...dried strawberries that our so sweet even Gary is good with just two or three pieces. We finished out our climb at a hill top market that sold all the in season fruits and vegetables, local hill tribe crafts and offered 'go cart' rides, not to mention magnificent panoramic views of the surrounding valley. Continued the scenic tour with Ninja Steve's 'Secret-Agent-back-roads-short-cut' down the mountain and a visit to see Steve's School - Prem Tinsulanonda International School. Finished off the day with Tik cooking up an amazing dinner topped off with fresh strawberries for dessert. Link to all Pictures

Day 24: North to Chiang Mai

One last stroll on the beach and good-bye to Pink House bungalows. We climbed into the air con mini van around 10 am and slowly made our way around to pick up the guests on the remaining 7 stops - they are very efficient at packing us in, no seat is left unoccupied! A few hours later we were back at Krabi airport and on the plane to Chiang Mai.

On our arrival we were greeted by STIK Tours (Steve and Tik) and taken back to their home for the next 5 days.  Enjoyed a great Moo Gata dinner (Thai style BBQ buffet) where you pick your meats, green vegetables and noodles and cook them at your table - all you can eat and drink for $5 - Delicious!

Day 23: Lanta Island Tour

Rented a scooter to tour the island today - two days of relaxing is enough. Drove across the island through Old Lanta Town (western shore) and all the way to the end of the road. That portion of the island seems almost unchanged from when we visited 5 years ago with Andy and Noha. Heading up the west shore we wrapped around the northern tip and started working down the eastern shore. The tourist map is a smattering of dots listing all the resorts closest to the pier and heading south along the first few beaches. But as you work farther south along the coast it still feels very similar to when we were here last. Groups of resorts with undeveloped patches of green space in between and beach areas that are still undeveloped. Yes, there are some higher class resorts replacing the older ones, but thankfully most are still small and quaint. Considering the change from when we first here in 1997 with dirt roads and grass huts it was nice to see a slow down in development. I am sure mostly due to economic conditions on not island preservation. We finished out the afternoon tour with sandwiches on fresh Rye bread at Nang Sabai (German bakery) and picked up a brownie and coconut cake for desert of course.

On our way back we noticed a bunch of people pulled over and stopped to see what they were looking at - monkeys - YAY! They must have noticed them on the side of the road then decided to throw them some Banana's, bad for the monkeys but good for photos.... We stayed back and waited for the crowds to disperse and then Gary worked his way in to get some great shots of a mother and baby actually eating what they were there for in the first place, flowering vegetation and seeds on the side of the road. Rounded out the day and our last night on Koh Lanta with another beautiful sunset, never get tired of watching the sun melt into the ocean.
Link to the Photos

Day 22: R&R

Yup that's it!!

Day 20-21: Ko Lipe to Ko Lanta

Spent our last day on Lipe strolling the beach, poking through the shops and reading. It felt like a long day not having anything planned. Finished drying the dive gear and packed our bags for the next leg of the trip. We spent 3 hours listening to the drone of 4 Yamaha engines cruising at 65-70 km/h skipping across the ocean as we made the speedboat crossing to Koh Lanta. Saw some beautiful vegetated limestone pinnacle islands along the way but the highlight of the trip was coming around the northern tip of the islands towards Seladen pier. We saw a monkey walking in the shallows and the speedboat driver definitely enjoyed maneuvering through the mangrove lined channel at 45km/h. For the next few days we booked a beach front bungalow on Khlong Nin Beach and can enjoy the sights and sounds of the ocean out our front door. Will be nice a change from the busy diving and touring schedule we have been leading so far.
Not sure Gary can sit till that long. Link to Pictures

Day 18-19: Advanced Course Complete

3 more dives and 2 more coconut buns and Vicky completed her Advanced course. We've seen two amazing dive sites and a beautiful sunset in the last couple days. Been very busy diving and eating. We've discovered the best Pad Thai, Mango Sticky Rice, and of course the best coconut shake (through extensive sampling). Diving highlights include a huge frogfish, several different nudibranchs and many different types of coral that we haven't seen before. Last day of diving on Ko Lipe tomorrow, then off to Ko Lanta for a few days and onwards to Chiang Mai, rounding out the trip at the 10 Star STIK Bungalows. ;)

Day 17: Dive Training

Vicky is happy to report that she successful performed her peak performance buoyancy tricks and navigated a square underwater. Gary was busy taking photos all the while. New fish life sighting today 'Indian walkmam, like a scorpionfish with legs and walks along the bottom - bizarre. Lots of anemonefish and different types of anemones. Gary got a great video of a very feisty one defending it's territory.

Favorite picture of the day was the juvenile yellow boxfish. Finished diving around 3:30 then hit the 'Lipe Walking Street (concrete pathway that crosses the center of the island and contains loads of shopping, restaurants and massage parlors. Favorite food of the day - coconut bun - even Gary was impressed.

Day 15-16: Bound for Ko Lipe

Spent the night at the Columbo airport waiting for our 7 am connection to Bangkok. Arrived Bangkok then flew to Krabi. We enjoyed dinner at the night market and got some much needed sleep.  Up at 6 am for our land and sea transfer to Ko Lipe. At 6:45 we were picked up and marked with a green sticker to indicate we were headed to the Pac Bara Pier. Our driver prided himself on speed and promised we'd be on time. His efficiency allowed extra stopping time along the way but may have caused a few grey hairs for some, when others heard our seat belts click they decided to follow suit. Upon arrival at PAC Bara we received our red sticker for Lipe.  The sticker system works amazingly well, despite where you get dropped off as long as you're flagged with a sticker,  you get where you're supposed to. We arrived at the Ko Lipe floating pier and took a longtail transfer to Adang Sea Lodge. Took a quick shower then headed out in search of lunch and a coconut shake. The rest of the  afternoon was spent posting the last week of blogs and Vicky studying......Advanced dive course starts tomorrow.

Day 14: Maldives Farewell

Our last breakfast with the group and a sad good-bye to all our new friends, some of whom we know we'll see again. Caught the last seaplane off Kuredu Island at 2:00 pm and spent the afternoon in the lobby of the Hulhule Island Hotel (closest to the airport). We had 8 hours to kill so played Yatchy (Yatzee) on Gary's cell phone and tried to look up some more accommodation options for Thailand but the wi-fi connection was painfully slow. Off to Thailand and Ko Lipe. To see the Maldives Picture Round Up click here.

Day 13: Kuredu

Rode the Kuredu Express first thing this morning, strong current with and over abundance of reef fish. Amazing how quickly you forget how many fish are around you. Hooked in to watch the action instead of blasting by, then carried on up the reef. As we finished our dive and swam to the blue, we saw 3 grey reef sharks just below us and had the company of a green turtle during our safety stop. We spent a fair bit of time searching the top of the thila for an octopus but they continue to elude us (almost all groups have seen at least one!). We enjoyed another large breakfast then washed our gear and started to pack. It was nice to be settled for a whole week but Vicky definitely took the opportunity to spread out. ;) We walked a full circle around Kuredu Island looking at the various accommodations from the 'sultan suites' to the basic garden bungalows. There was a shallow lagoon across the island that had small black tip reef sharks, a nurse shark and several small rays so we spent time taking photos and watching them. A 'Cold Stone' style ice cream in the afternoon and back to the boat for our last night on Monsoon and final dinner with our amazing group.

Day 12: Mantas and Turtle Airport

Highlight of the day was finally getting to see the Manta rays! At one point we were with two of them. Gary was swimming off for a video with one and another one came in behind him only a couple arm lengths from me.

It was so incredible watching them glide through the water as they fed. We thought the day couldn't possibly get better but the last dive was at a site know as 'Turtle airport'. We must have seen 10 different turtles and Gary got bumped by one coming out of a cave while he was taking a photo of a large snapper at a cleaning station. Candlelight barbeque dinner on an uninhabited island to end the last full dive day.

Day 11: Sleep. Eat. Dive. Repeat.

Started the day back at the shark site we dove yesterday. Same 3 eagle rays in the area but also saw a larger one performing acrobatics in the deep blue.

Sharks getting cleaned, floating at a 60 degree angle with their mouths open, amazing behavior we had never seen before. Next site was a single thila 'Christmas Tree' which was shaped like a Christmas tree, with several different ledges making up the spiral branch like structure, We circled from the bottom up. Two great 'presents': at the bottom (reef sharks) and the star of the afternoon at the top was a turtle cruising in the sun. So much life on such a small reef! Could have easily spent a couple more dives investigating all the nooks and crannies.

Day 10: Sharks and Eagle Rays

6 am wake up call as the anchors were brought up to head off to our morning dive location. First dive was a short one due to strong current (basically we sucked air quickly fighting against it). The second dive was amazing. We spent about 40 minutes hooked in at a cleaning station watching 5 grey reef sharks and 3 eagle rays in the current. The viz isn't really great so the pictures could have been better.

Our best shots would have been after we unhooked and crossed the reef to begin our ascent - two reef sharks crossed right in front of us, too bad we'd put the cameras away. Out next dive we spent time on the side of a thila (submerged reef) looking in several little caves which were mainly inhabited by moray eels. The top was covered in loads of coral and tonnes of fish. One person in our group caught a glimpse of a manta and we spent the end of the dive trying to find it without any luck. Another group got a great video - maybe next time.

Day 09: Dive Days

The day starts with a knock on the door followed by a loud "Gooood mooorniiing" at 6:45 am. Coffee, tea, juice and a light snack (usually a loaf and fruit) are available during the dive briefing. Chris, our primary dive guide and boat coordinator, reviews his sketch of the dive site and provides information for orientation as well as species to look for and where they may occur during the dive (sandy flats, caves etc.) We are able to dive guided or unguided so it's important to pay attention during the briefing, details like 'go north to the next pinnacle when the reef ends' are really important when the current is pushing you around and the rest of the group is nowhere to be seen.

Diving on the Monsoon is done from a zodiac. The boat driver gets us exactly where Chris has determined from a quick snorkel checkout to determining the final current rating (0-5) and on the count of three everyone must roll back and descend immediately in order to get on the reef/dive site. When the air tank hits 750 psi we head up to 15 feet for the safety stop, Gary inflates the safety buoy and the zodiac comes around and picks up each buddy pair (it can be quite surprising where everyone ends up).

Getting back in the zodiac is a bit of a challenge. We must give our camera, weight and BCD to the boat driver then get back in the boat however we can.  Gary has developed take a run at it method which works well. Vicky uses the push down, pull up, kick method along with a wiggle-waggle-flop like a seal into the bottom of the boat- it is quite entertaining as we all cheer each other on. By the third day we are all pros with slightly different and entertaining techniques.

Day 08: Let the Diving Begin

3 dive day, 2 at Lhaviyani Atoll and 1 at Baa Atoll. Beautiful scenery as we moved west toward Baa Atoll for the last dive, lots of turquoise seas and white sand beaches. The viz isn't as good as expected, there has been unseasonably high winds for the last few weeks. That being said, it's still like swimming in and aquarium. There are tonnes of fish everywhere, hard to decide where to focus your camera.

Last dive of the day was a ripping current, like Crush ridin' the wave. Highlights of the day included stingray, green moray, lionfish and clownfish (anemone fish) hanging out as expected in their trusted anemone (that is when the current wasn't ripping it away!). Lots of food throughout the day, it's suprising how hungry diving can make you.

Day 07: Off to Monsoon

Arrival at the seaplane terminal 6:15 am for our 7:15 flight. Soba was up early to make sure we had breakfast before we left. On arrival we were put in the resort lounge to wait for departure. The seaplane ride was spectacular, amazing to see the atolls with the different resorts. 40 minutes later we arrived at Kuredu, the home of the Monsoon.

We spent most of the morning and early afternoon lounging and eating at the buffet. Took a short check out dive on the house reef to make sure all the gear was good to go. Set off around 5 pm to the evening mooring in a sheltered cove (rough seas today). Late dinner and early to bed, dive day begins at 7 am.

Day 06: Maldivian Breakfast

Note: It will be at least a week till we are back online.

Breakfast is included where we are staying and now that we've been here a couple days, and gotten to know the staff, we were offered the chance to try a traditional Maldivian breakfast- Mas huni. Soba, one of the hotel employees and friend of the hotel owner, explained that it was tuna and coconut with spices served with a chapati type bread. It was very tasty and made to only medium spice which was good for Vicky, Soba apologized that they were not able to get the fresh chilies for the top but that was fine with us. We booked the rest of our flights and accommodation for the Thailand portion of the trip and went back to Male to walk along the ocean and check out the bustling city again. Tomorrow we are up early (5 am) for our seaplane transfer to begin our week aboard the MY Monsoon.

Day 05: Malé Island

Took the local ferry to Malé today, $0.40 for a 20 minute ride. The scooters load first followed by the foot passengers to a maximum of 130 people. First stop was Shell Beans for iced cappuccinos, it's been Nescafe since we started the trip so it was nice to get some real espresso (but have to admit Nescafe is growing on us). We logged 8 km today on the small island enjoying local eats and friendly conversations while covering the usual tourist track and venturing into the less visited side streets.

As we exited the ferry terminal, we ventured up the pier/boardwalk/sidewalk watching all the days goods being unloaded. There was everything from household furnishings to produce to the fisherman's catch. Even selling whole Tuna right on the sidewalk. First stop was the vegetable market. Upon entry we were greeted by a very enthusiastic vendor who insisted we sample smoked tuna, local mango, bananas, ground coconut/coconut sugar stick, very tasty unknown tropical nuts and passion fruit made sweeter with a drizzle of liquid coconut sugar. We purchased some fruit, then wandered through the remaining network of stalls. Next stop was across the street at the fish market. Working our way through the crowds, we watched the locals negotiating for the days catch and highly skilled fish mongers filleting their choice - it was amazing to see how quickly they could take apart a 80 lb tuna.

We made our way out the back and headed pier side to continue our trek around the island. Malé is quite amazing, every block has a building that is being extended higher to try and accommodate the ever growing population. Some serious urban planning needed here, 92,000 people and a limit of 2 sq km to work with. Surprisingly, it did not feel crowded to us at all. After the day on our feet, of course it was easy to justify an afternoon ice cream in a freshly made waffle cone, ocean side at the public beach. Back to our home of the week for a great dinner and relax for the evening.

Day 04: Arrived Maldives

One last quick flight and we arrived in Male at 1:15 am, smooth arrival with all bags in hand and we made it to our home for the next couple of days, Newtown Inn by 2:30 am. Our clocks are resetting fairly quickly, up at 8:30 am for breakfast was easier than expected, but an afternoon siesta is hard to avoid. We ventured out for the afternoon to check out Hulhumalé  the island we are currently staying on. Beautiful white sand beach and turquoise waters are always a great sight. Vicky also managed to find the only ice cream shop on the island, perfectly timed for an afternoon treat on the way back to the hotel. Ended the day with another great dinner and fresh mango juice ;)

Day 03: Bangkok

Great sleep in a very comfy King sized bed, good thing we both had earplugs because the sound of construction and planes taking off would have woken us up earlier. Lounged and surfed the rest of the morning to firm up plans for our trip south to Ko Lipe when we return. Took a short walk around the hotel area, not much to see so we headed back for a late lunch: Pad Thai, spring rolls and Cokes. Just finished strolling through the Colombo airport (Sri Lanka) and are now sitting outside the Dilmah Tea shop (Vicky's favorite tea is grown here) waiting for our connection to Male just after midnight.

Day 01-02: Enroute to Bangkok

Up at 6 am to begin our 23 hour trip to Bangkok. Spokane was fogged in but once we hit altitude it was beautiful sunny skies and and cloud filled valleys through to Seattle. Looking out the window during our descent Vicky saw the top of a single office building through the clouds and shortly afterward the plane pulled up quite suddenly. The flight attendant quickly explained there was no cause for alarm but they had to abandon the approach. Another loop around the building and we were on the ground. Delta's video on demand helped keep us awake the 10 hours to Tokyo but there was a lot more head bobbing the last 7 hours from Tokyo to Bangkok. Due to our early morning arrival we booked our first night accommodation ($20 - including airport shuttle) and hoped for the best. We were pleasantly surprised to see a sign for the Plai Garden at the arrival gate and within 10 minutes we were on our way to the guesthouse bed - 2:30 am, time to sleep.

Day 00: Nelson to Spokane

Early start dropping Hunter off with the Grandparents for his vacation. Watching TV with Nonno, hiking with Gran and Nonno at the golf course and hanging in the backyard with his Fruitvale buddies. Arrived in Spokane early afternoon to pickup some last minute supplies and off to the hotel to finalize the baggage weight distribution. Ready for an early start to the journey.